It is undeniable that Kyoto is one of the most beautiful cities in the world, so, like our food choices, we were overwhelmed with places to see, things to do. However, with a toddler, we were really limited to what we could actually comfortably and safely explore. So we decided not to stress ourselves out by trying to see everything – we told ourselves that we could always come back. So here is #TravellingtoKyotowithaToddler Tip 6: There are numerous open parks in Kyoto for kids to run around. The kids will enjoy running around in the open space much more than being strapped to a pram. Yes – we learnt this the hard way.
KYOTO IMPERIAL PALACE
The Kyoto Imperial Palace is surrounded by the Kyoto Imperial Garden which comprises many sprawling gardens, tended to with traditional Japanese restraint. We easily spent a few hours walking around. The only problem was the gravel grounds which made pushing a stroller a real pain. But there’s nothing that could have been done, except if you planned beforehand and brought the toddler out in a baby carrier, if the kiddies are still light enough. Mr E hated the carrier since he was a few days old so it was never an option for us. Oh and #TravellingtoKyotowithaToddler Tip 6: Do register for the Kyoto Palace tours a day or two before because it is absolutely impossible to get a slot if you just appear on the day itself. I don’t think they allow children (you may want to double check) so I one of the adults may have to sit out the tour.
KYOTO FIVE-HOUR WALKING TOUR
On one of the days we bravely embarked on a five-hour walking tour throughout Kyoto called the “Walk in Kyoto, Talk in English” tour. I love going on guided tours because if the guide is good, they really open your eyes and show you a whole new perspective to a city. Luckily for us, the guide we had was as wonderful as we hoped. Our guide, Shomi, who said that the easiest way to remember her name was to think, “Shomi (show me) Kyoto!” was fluent in English and was as witty as she was knowledgeable about the old city’s history and culture.
During the five-hour tour, we visited the Higashi-Honganji temple one of the largest temples in Kyoto (or in Japan? I can’t remember) made completely out of wood. She also shared how when the temple burnt down, during the rebuilding, devotees who had no money offered their hair because apparently to strengthen the hemp ropes. Because the main hall had been destroyed in a fire in the past, she pointed out how elements of water had been incorporated into the architecture in an effort to ward off fires. After the temple, we also visited a few shinto shrines, Gojo-rakuen (the former Geisha town), tofu, fans and pottery workshops.
While the tour was very interesting to us adults, it was quite taxing on Mr E who had to eat his lunch on the go and missed two naps. He tried to nap in the pram but was often jolted awake by the gravelly grounds of some temples and parks. As you can see, he was not in the best mood when we were at the temple and had to be dragged along the wooden floor. But cest la vie. This holiday was not meant for him alone to enjoy! #TravellinginKyotowithaToddler Tip 7: Don’t plan the whole itinerary around the child. Do what you want to do as well, the child will adapt and go along. He’ll survive. He needs to learn that he’s not the centre of the universe. If you do happen to go for the “Walk in Kyoto, Talk in English” tour, bring lots of biscuits and water and also a lunchbox because they only have a 20-minute refreshment break, no actual lunch break.
So after the successful five-hour walk we decided to attempt another walking tour – this time around the Gion district, famous for its mysterious residents, the Geisha. Run by the WaRaiDo Guide Network, the same company as the “Walk in Kyoto, Talk in English” tour, we were not disappointed by the quality of the commentary and the guide’s rich historical and cultural knowledge.
She went in-depth about the identifying traits between a Geiko (the term for Geisha in Kyoto) and Maiko, the gruelling training process, how a patron goes about engaging a Geiko or Maiko for their tea party, where the Geiko and Maiko entertain, how to identify a teahouse (where a Geiko or Maiko entertain), how to identify a Geiko house and much more. It really brought the whole Gion area to life. I just LOVE tours. I truly feel as though I see a place with new eyes while walking with an experienced guide.
I cannot recommend these two tours enough. I guess if you only have time for one, do the Gion After Dark Walking Tour simply because the Geisha culture is just so fascinating.
#TravellingwithaToddler Tip 8: I do strongly suggest you let the child run around like crazy before so he / she is thoroughly exhausted during the tour. After spending the whole day in the stroller, Mr E was NOT impressed when he found out he had to spend another two hours constrained. He was understandably cranky and let it show. If you know him, he generally doesn’t cry in public or throw tantrums or complain, however, embarrassingly, he did make it known that he was unhappy that he had to spend another two hours in the stroller right in the heart of the Gion district, which is the LAST place you want your child to cry.
NARA DEER PARK
Nara Deer Park was highly anticipated by all of us. The thought of free-roaming deer coming up to us in a beautiful idyllic park was just too exciting. Of course, hundreds of other tourists also found the idea of free-roaming deer appealing. We travelled to Nara by train which took about an hour and a half. Not too long, but I suggest you bring snacks and some sort of entertainment to amuse your child. It then took another 20-30 minutes bus ride to the Nara Deer Park.
Little did we realise, just how aggressive these deer actually are. While they do not attack people, the bolder of the lot would actually go up to people and grab their food. My father had some food in a paper bag and the deer snatched it out of his hand and ate ALL OF IT. The paper bag, the paper wrapping and the sausage roll. We were traumatised. Luckily the deer were quite gentle with Mr E.
While at the Nara Deer Park we made a rookie tourist mistake. We were so tired we just decided to eat at the restaurant nearest the park. BIG MISTAKE. The restaurant was so overpriced and the food so ordinary that it kind of spoiled our day. Luckily, after lunch we walked through the park and found a nice area away from the busy main thoroughfare. There were not many deer there because most of them were bent on snatching food from tourists so it was quite a lovely place for Mr E to run around uninhibited. Incidentally, there was a group of Japanese school children who were playing games in the open field where we were so Mr E ran straight up to them and tried to join in. I must give credit to the Japanese culture of tolerance and politeness, the school children were so polite that they didn’t push him away and let him run around amongst them.
#TravellingwithaToddlerTip 9: Do NOT eat at the restaurants at Nara Deer Park. I suggest eating at the main Nara town, it is much prettier and there’s so many more cost effective options. Head to the park after lunch and maybe bring a picnic – tucked safely in your bag – and then walk about 10-minutes into the park to find a quiet area away from the deer and enjoy the rest of the day.
Wow, I just realised I’ve written a whole novel. Thank you if you have gotten through all three posts. In short, Kyoto is truly perfect for children. Especially Kyoto in Spring or Autumn. The weather is mild and the gardens are all rich in colour. While I did encounter some nasty eggs, most Japanese are pretty gentle and polite which makes travelling all the more safe and easy.
Baby Step by Baby Step 